From Dublin to San Sebastián (aka “The Journey Begins”)

Ryan’s Take: 

When we were kids, Liam and I used to sit by the Dublin Bay staring out at the horizon, talking about all the places we’d sail to one day.

Those were just dreams, those.

But on a calm morning last week, we actually set sail from Dún Laoghaire Harbour, Dublin, to San Sebastián in Spain!

This first leg of the journey was a bit of a reality check if I’m honest. Preparing for the trip was pretty tiring—the checklist went on and on. First, there was “La Sirena” herself, our 35-foot Beneteau Oceanis 351.

She’s a beauty.

Solid.

But even solid boats need a bit of TLC before crossing the Bay of Biscay. It’s quite a challenging sea (I’ve heard).

We spent weeks checking every system: checking the rigging, improving our navigation tech, and installing Starlink Maritime for reliable internet access. That last one felt like a game-changer—knowing we could stay connected for weather updates (and to call Da’ to calm his nerves) gave us a bit of peace of mind. 

Food was another challenge.

Liam loves fancy meals and me, I’m a bit more practical (think pasta and baked beans). Still we managed to stock the galley with enough scran to last us weeks.

Fresh water, emergency rations, a ridiculous amount of coffee—it all had to be planned and stowed.

Liam even brought about 5 bottles of hot sauce because, as he put it, “It keeps you warm even if the food is cold.”

I don’t think he’s got that one right.

But whatever!

As we left Dún Laoghaire Harbour the reality of what we were doing really hit me.

I know we’ll be OK financially. We inherited a bit of money when Ma’ died, from what she got selling her father’s house in Ballybough. At the wake we made a pact Liam and I that we’d put that money to good use, in honour of Ma’.

I think she’d be proud of us doing this. She always said to us: “Brothers stick together.”

But sailing across open waters is something else. The weather is unpredictable, the swells are rough, and I only last year got my RYA “Day Skipper Course” and my sailing licence.

Anyway we promised that we’d each write about our trip on this blog Ocean Bois.

Sorry to do this to youse, but here’s my baby brother Liam.

Liam’s Take: 

Ryan likes to think he’s the smart one—he’ll tell you about the boat, the gear and the meticulous planning.

And all of that matters. But for me, this trip is about something else: stepping out of the routine, doing something different, and honouring our Ma’.

It’s one of those “once-in-a-lifetime” things.

But as Dublin faded into the distance, I’ll tell youse, I was a bit useless at first. We both did the Day Skipper Course but Ryan had the charts memorized, the wind angles calculated, and the radio ready for emergencies.

Me?

I was just trying not to trip over the winches and stopping meself from chucking up over the side of the boat. 

By day two, we were a proper team though.

When you’re brothers, there’s an ease to it. I handled the cooking (I did a good risotto, with prawns) while Ryan focused on keeping us on course. We argued obviously and even argued over the playlist (Ryan wanted pop classics while I was playing rap music). He’d argue about anything tbh. 

Almost Capsizing in the Bay of Biscay

Crossing the Bay of Biscay is something a few of the older sailing guys warned us about.

It’s a tricky stretch of water. The shallow continental shelf meets the deep Atlantic. The change can make for some big waves when the wind’s out.

And it got windy alright.

On our third night, it was intense. The wind as blowing 25 knots and the waves was slamming into “La Sirena“.

It was pretty intimidating.

The autopilot wasn’t working, so Ryan took the helm. Every decision he made in those moments mattered—how much to ease the mainsheet, when to shift our course slightly to take the waves at a better angle, and when to call for help. 

I have to say he has the better share of sailing skills among us.

There was a moment, around 2 a.m., when the full weight of the situation hit me. We’re in the middle of one of the most unpredictable seas in the world, far from any port, with nothing but each other.

But this is what we’d signed up for.

Life at sea.

Eventually, Ryan needed a sail reduction, and we reefed the main to reduce our exposure to the wind. It wasn’t easy—every movement on deck was a battle as the boat heeled sharply and the spray stung our faces.

But the difference was immediate.

The boat steadied, the autopilot got back some control, and the panic calmed down. 

By dawn, the storm had eased.

We’d made it through the night, and La Sirena had proven her worth (and us!).

That crossing taught us something invaluable: respect the ocean, trust your preparation, and lean on each other. We’re still rookies, but that night in the Bay of Biscay made us feel like sailors I’ll tell youse. 

I know I’m going on a bit but we’re only doing this trip maybe once. I want something to look back on and properly remember it all, you know?

And I feel like I’m talking to Ma’ in writing this.

I know she’d be the first one standing on the shore in Spain shouting and waving with the police and helicopters out to find us. But I know she’d be proud inside.

Landfall in San Sebastián: 

After five days at sea, we spotted northern Spain.

We’d done it. 

Pulling into the harbour was a bit of relief. We hugged, cheered, and probably scared a few locals. 

We toasted with a bottle of Rioja wine we’d picked up in Dublin, sitting on the deck of La Sirena . It wasn’t just about reaching San Sebastián—it was about proving to ourselves that we could. 

What’s Next? 

Our journey doesn’t end here. San Sebastián is just the beginning of our adventure. Over the coming weeks, we’ll be sailing along Spain’s northern coast, stopping in Bilbao, Santander, and eventually making our way to Barcelona. 

We’ll keep sharing our stories here.

To all youse back home in Ireland who’s following us then thanks for joining us on this wild ride. 

Until next time, 

Ryan & Liam 
The “Ocean Bois”

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